l’Eclaireur is one of the more unique retail businesses in Paris.  Owners Armand and Martine Hadida opened their first l’Eclaireur boutique nearly three decades ago, and they quickly became known for their selection of cool and unusual designs.  Over the years, they opened several more stores, each one different in look, feel and product.  I’ve been to all of the l’Eclaireur locations — it’s so interesting to discover what each one is carrying.  I often shopped at their second destination (now closed) on the rue des Rosiers.  It opened back in 1990 in the heart of the Marais — not a big fashion hotspot at the time.  But the Hadidas were always ahead of the curve.

With Armand Hadida this past summer

I last saw Armand during Haute Couture this summer when his rue de Boissy d’Anglas location hosted a party for Loulou de la Falaise’s new jewelry collection.  He began telling me about the l’Eclaireur space he was planning to open later this year, and it sounded amazing.  A few weeks ago, it was finished at last.  I asked fashion journalist Nora Baldenweg to stop by and meet with Armand on my behalf.  Below is her glowing l’Eclaireur coverage:

Nestled within a quiet street of the busy Marais, l’Eclaireur Sévigné is a retail haven for true fashion aficionados.  Though the store reads like a who’s who of the coolest, chicest and most exciting fashion brands – Balmain, Lanvin, Mark Fast, Rick Owens, Martin Margiela, Dries Van Noten, Christopher Kane, Haider Ackermann, Balenciaga and Ann Demeulemeester – founding couple Armand and Martine Hadida are above all known for swimming against the mainstream with their surprising and visionary retail concepts. They entrusted artist and architect Arne Quinze with the realization of their new space, and the result is not so much a boutique as an interactive installation where fashion is sold: hidden cupboards, lacquered wood planks, 147 video screens, varnished cardboard sheets, moveable walls, a pile of vintage ballet flats positioned like a stack of fresh baguettes. On my last visit, Armand took me on a little tour and responded to my questions for Susan…

Susan Tabak: Armand, tell me about this new space.

Armand Hadida: The idea behind it is very simple. Fashion boutiques as we know them don’t respond to the expectations of culturally well-informed people anymore….Boutiques have stayed static and are totally out of phase with what is going on. It was time to make room for something new – to create a little electroshock.  It was not about being ahead, but living with our time.

Susan: What is new about this venue?

Armand: We wanted it to be the first place where fashion unites with art and nothing else. Through architecture, sculpture, artistic short films and technology, we have managed to dig up a completely new direction. We are at the very beginning of our idea.

Susan: You created the space in collaboration with the artist and architect Arne Quinze.

Armand: He is a Belgian designer, who excels in his world of installations, his well-organized disorder, his cityscapes, and, of course, his architectural developments which have become very important today. But for me he remains an interesting artist and that is why I took him on board. Up until now we had always realized everything internally, but this was a very symbiotic project, and it was a real pleasure to collaborate with him.

Susan: Will the wooden sculpture in the middle of the room stay?

Armand: It’s an expression, which will evolve in time. On our website you will be able to see how the sculpture takes on new forms and sizes. The same thing goes for the films playing on the 147 screens that are all over the place. Our aim is to develop an annual competition, to get schools working, and to accompany young people who are finishing off their studies. The films we’re showing right now are films by Quinze, who was very generous to show us the body of his favorite woman covered in honey.

Susan: And what is the Room Book?

Armand: It’s a video installation by the two artists Naziha Mestaoui and Yacine Ait Kaci of Electronic Shadow. It’s in a room, behind a little door. It is voluntarily a bit hidden. You just have to push the door and you will discover the installation straight away.

Susan: You’ve embarked on a courageously risky store concept. Many of the pieces you are selling are hidden behind moveable walls and have yet to be discovered by your customers.

Armand: The idea behind that is to try and preserve a little ‘secret garden.’ We deliberately wanted to hide parts of our selection, because, even with the sharpest eye, it would be very hard to perceive and digest everything we propose in one glance.  It is a whole orchestration of creative genius, so our role is to give life to all of that. That is also why our salespeople are so important. We want to accompany our visitors on their discovery by showing them less at a time. Besides that, we also wanted to give the backroom a double function. It can be totally neutralized from fashion to allow people to communicate using their own images on the screens. It can be used for press presentations, cocktails, etc.

Susan: Since opening your first store on the Champs-Élysées 30 years ago, a lot has happened. You currently have four retail spaces in Paris and each one is truly different.

Armand: Yes, they’re like the fingers of a hand, they’re all attached to the same member, but they have different actions and functions. But it is the unity…which gives us power and strength.

We had other spaces along the line – in St Germain des Prés, at Palais Royal – we often flirted with other spaces, but the four venues now [have stood out]: in Boissy d’Anglas we reunite a rather interesting triptych: fashion, decoration and a restaurant; at rue Malher we reunite men’s fashion and everything that is olfactory; rue Hérold has stayed the discreet and confidential one and here, this new space, it is the most obliging.  Here we will constantly improve and confirm our choices. Every space was created in a different period, so naturally we had different momentary feelings, visions and desires to translate into a medium.

Susan: Does each space have a different clientele?

Armand: We do have customers that are loyal to their space, but there are also those who drop by depending on where they happen to be. There is a slight difference in products, but generally we have all sorts of customers – young, old, rich, poor. Even if the poor will never buy anything in our stores, they deserve our respect and the same acceptance as those who spend the most. They are part of the public, thanks to whom we can still exist today. It’s those people who are curious and honor us by their presence, by encouraging us and talking about us.

Susan: Why did you decide to close your famous boutique on rue des Rosiers?

Armand: I think after 20 years, our space on rue des Rosiers really said everything it had to say. It was a fading signature, which was becoming difficult to support. I know lots of people are worried about leaving a space. They want to keep the history and the heritage, but that is so difficult to keep anyway. Besides, when we invested in that area two decades ago, rue des Rosiers was one of the most interesting streets in Paris: it offered real village culture, the typical image of a little Parisian street with hairdressers, butchers, bookshops, patisseries, little shops, restaurants and their smells – it was magical, but unfortunately streets like that are disappearing, and that’s just what happened to rue des Rosiers. It was invaded by fashion. So that’s why, with our new space, we have decided to become a neighbor only to the Musée Carnavalet, the school across the road and the little Petit Bateau shop next door. We just wanted to be on a much quieter, less commercial street. I’m pretty sure no one is going to buy up the museum to set up a vintage store in its premises, and it’s even less likely to happen to the college.

Susan: Going against the current and being different seems to have been the key to your success over and over again. Do you think so?

Armand: It’s true. We have always wanted to be different than the norm, to have a certain distance, anything but plagiarisms. When we invested in rue des Rosiers, we really wanted to disassociate ourselves from what everyone else was doing.  We combined fashion with design and the people behind it. So twenty years ago that was the beginning of a new story, which was later called a ‘concept store.’ And then ten years later [when it was a time of luxury and showiness], we decided to go the other way and created our space on rue Hérold: no architect, no special place, no shop windows, no sales. We had to fight those incredible mega spaces that were popping up everywhere, but we managed to set an antipole.  We’re happy we did because the space was later named the most original fashion destination in the world by Goldman Sachs.

Susan: What is a must-have piece in everyone woman’s closet?

Armand: It’s the piece you know you won’t see on your office mate, your best friend or anyone in the taxi line or on the metro. The piece that makes you different from the rest.

Susan: Where and for what do you spend your money on?

Armand: I tend to spend my money at l’Eclaireur. We have a great and very complete selection for men. We don’t have any underwear so I buy that elsewhere. I don’t even buy socks by the way. I never wear socks.

Susan: But there must be something you splurge on other than clothes?

Armand: Mais oui! Food, alcohol, restaurants… I am a big consumer because I am a big enjoyer.

Susan: Did you grow up in Paris?

Armand: I was adopted in Paris. I am the perfect example of a roaming Jew.

Many thanks to Armand Hadida and, of course, to Nora Baldenweg for her amazing insight.  I can’t wait to check out the latest l’Eclaireur on my next visit to Paris.

photos via Studio Arne Quinze BVBA and by Nora Baldenweg

I was delighted to discover that Hôtel Le Bristol would be debuting their new restaurant 114 Faubourg during my recent stay.  After purchasing a former bank and apartment building next door, the Bristol spent several years planning and constructing a new wing to the hotel.  I’ve watched it develop over the years, and the end result is a marvelous chic space that complements the hotel beautifully.

Twenty-six guest rooms were added, but the crown jewel of the extension is 114 Faubourg.  It’s an upscale brasserie with an open kitchen downstairs and a sweeping wrought-iron stairway that connects its two levels.

Conceived with the help of Italian designer Guendalina Litta Modignani, the restaurant interior is warm, colorful, elegant.  There are huge flowers painted on the upstairs and downstairs walls, inspired by hotel owner Maja Oetker’s favorite flora — she’s very fond of dahlias.  It’s a lovely, relaxed alternative to the hotel’s main dining room.

I was so busy attending the prêt-à-porter shows, parties and assorted fashion events that I unfortunately did not get the opportunity to eat here.  The Bristol’s food by Chef Eric Fréchon is superb (in March of this year he was awarded three Michelin stars for his cuisine in the main restaurant).  144 Faubourg introduces a young chef, Eric Desbordes, under his direction.  The restaurant will offer dishes that blend French classicism with world flavors, and apparently you can customize your meal.  Choose a main course and the way you wish to have it prepared.  Then select a sauce and a side to pair with the entrée.  It’s made-to-measure — how fabulous!

I happened to pass by Sunday brunch when I departed the hotel, and nearly all of the 93 seats were filled.  I can’t wait to dine here on my next Paris visit (which won’t be too far off).

Here I am with one of the sous chefs.  I stopped in before the dinner rush so I could take a good look around.  Click below for additional footage of 114 Faubourg, including the kitchen, décor and an impressive wine cellar.  Enjoy!

photos by Marie Goujon

The Vogue soirée celebrating 90 years of covers was one of the most glamorous evenings of Paris Fashion Week.  I wrote about the incredible event, held along the Champs-Élysées and at the Crillon, but now you must see some footage!  Click above to watch my video diary of the Vogue celebration, followed by the opening party for Louis Vuitton’s spectacular new jewelry line by Lorenz Bäumer.  Enjoy!

Iris Apfel

Several years ago I attended a fashion conference hosted by New York University and Iris Apfel was a speaker.  She spoke of her work in fashion and interior design and shared her personal style tips.

I was immediately taken by Iris’s extraordinary sense of personal style.  She mixes high and low –  from Haute Couture to flea market finds –  and creates a look that is totally unique and all her own.  Iris doesn’t abide by trends — she inspires them.

With Iris at Ralph Rucci's NY Fashion Week show, September 2009

In the years since then, I’ve seen Iris at dozens of fashion soirées: Ralph Rucci calls her a muse and she’s always at his shows.  I’ve seen her at events for the Musuem at F.I.T., and she attended a luncheon and book signing that was held for me in Palm Beach.  No matter where we run into each other, Iris’s vibrant ensemble and personal panache always leave me impressed.

So it’s exciting to hear that Rare Bird of Fashion: The Irreverent Iris Apfel will be opening today at the Peabody Essex Museum, just outside of Boston.  It’s a special exhibition featuring more than 80 dramatic looks from Iris’s renowned wardrobe.  The show started at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, where I first saw it, and headed south to the Norton Museum of Art in West Palm Beach, Florida.  It then made its way to the Nassau County Museum of Art on Long Island and now you can see it at the Peabody Essex through February of next year.  Iris has the coolest, most eclectic finds, and she’s a woman I greatly admire.

Also of note — during the same time that Rare Bird is showing, the Peabody Essex is exhibiting the work of French fashion photographer Valérie Belin.  Valérie Belin: Made Up features twenty images of mannequins, models and still lifes in large scale, and apparently it was a very popular retrospective in Europe.

Perhaps a trip to the Boston area is in order!

- exhibition images via boston.com; Susan Tabak and Iris Apfel by Michael N. Todaro.

I could watch footage from this Chanel show again and again.  It was really the high point of last week’s prêt-à-porter Spring 2010 presentations.  Click above to watch my video diary of Chanel, featuring Lily Allen’s performance and my conversation afterward with Karl Lagerfeld.

Here is another one of my prêt-à-porter video diaries.  As I mentioned in my collection review, the crowd at Yves Saint Laurent was among the more star-studded: Prince, Claudia Schiffer, Katy Perry, all the big fashion editors and so on.  The highlight for me was finally meeting François-Henri Pinault, head of PPR.

Giambattista Valli also got a great crowd.  Everyone was excited by this chic, upbeat collection — especially those last few short dresses with the red dip-dyed feathers.  So much fun.  Click above to watch scenes from both shows.

Two superb shows, two very different styles.  That’s what I love about Paris Fashion Week!  You see such a variety of chic looks and inspiration.  Click above to watch highlights from the Akris and Givenchy shows.  Enjoy!

The prêt-à-porter Spring 2010 collections showcased a variety of looks and styles.  Some designers played it safe, some pushed the envelope.  Some shows were fairly straightforward while others were pure theater.  It’s always fun to discover what you’ll see next.  Throughout all the shows, there were a few looks that lingered in my mind.  The following are my five favorites from Paris fashion week…

This is a fabulous evening dress from Chanel.  It’s sexy and modern but still so Chanel.

Riccardo Tisci is one of those designers who pushed himself to new heights this season.  Wow.  He created a collection for Givenchy that was strong, chic and inventive.  And it definitely left a lasting impression.  I loved all three of these looks below.

So clever.  Here he explores new cuts, a new shape and this amazing new print.

Again, I love this op-art print.  This design here is original and cool and totally fresh — I haven’t seen anything else like it out there.

Another favorite from this collection.  It’s strong and soft at the same time.  Perfectly executed.

This dress by Giambattista Valli was a total showstopper.  The dip-dyed red feathers were incredible.  If you’re looking to make a statement, this is your dress.

What were some of your favorites from Paris Prêt-à-Porter Spring 2010?

images via style.com

Outside the Jardin des Tuileries

Things have been crazy this past week with all the shows, the fashion events and the M6 documentary I’ve been filming.  Still, I looked forward to Wednesday’s Elie Saab show at the Jardin des Tuileries.  He’s a great way to end the week because I know whatever I see will be beautiful.  Elie may vary his color palette or silhouettes, but not his tendency for good old-fashioned glamour.

Susan and Sarah Besnainou

Jumana A. Yassin and Susan

Elie has a loyal following of couture and prêt-à-porter buyers from around the world.  He’s also beloved by Hollywood actresses seeking something chic for red carpet occasions.

This Spring 2010 collection delivered some of those looks, but it lacked the WOW factor of previous seasons.  The draping and beading were still very much in tact, but the sharpness of the dresses was a new direction for the designer.  Structured shoulders and pronounced hardware made the clothing a little less goddess-like than collections of the past.  I kept waiting for those splendidly glamorous gowns of yesteryear…but they never quite arrived.

That’s not to say they weren’t beautiful.  This is Elie Saab and that goes without saying.  I mean, look at that gorgeous beaded gown above and the way these designs move below.  Elie knows how to shape and drape a dress no matter what style it evokes.

I got a closer look at that beaded gown backstage.

I greeted Elie afterward.  It wasn’t a scene like Chanel or Givenchy, but pop star Nelly Furtado and burlesque beauty Dita Von Teese caused a stir.  Both were very gracious and Dita looked flawless as usual.

Elie Saab and Susan

Nelly Furtado, Elie Saab, Dita Von Teese

runway images via style.com; candid photos by Marie Goujon

I’ve said it before, but there’s really nothing quite like the spectacle of a Chanel show.  It’s consistently one of the hottest tickets each Fashion Week, and the enthusiasm of the crowd alone is enough to sweep you away!

Well, swept away we were.  It was back to the farm for the Spring 2010 collection, in what was easily the most lively and glorious presentation all week.  Karl Lagerfeld outdid himself — even by his own extraordinary standards.  Guests found the Grand Palais transformed into a barn upon entering the show, with hay everywhere and a trodden dirt path for the runway.  It even smelled like a barn!

But this throwback of a set design only served to enhance a marvelous collection.  When the rooster crowed, models emerged from the hay loft and flaunted a series of richly detailed Chanel suits.  This season the brand’s signature tweed suit involved some lace, embroidery, crochet-knits and serious slits up the side.  Karl selected creams, whites, and black from the Chanel color palette — perfect for a light and pastoral-inspired look.  The color emphases may vary from season to season, but the impeccable tailoring and masterful workmanship remain constant every collection.  Have a closer view below.

About halfway through the show, singer Lily Allen and her band rose from a trap door and began crooning some hill billy tunes to go along with the clothing.  I had the perfect seat — right in front of the barn — but I honestly didn’t know where to look!  This show was such a delight to the senses!  I kind of let myself go and enjoy the moment.

After a staggering 72 looks, the finale had models (and muses) Freja Beha Erichsen, Baptiste Giacobini and Lara Stone rolling in the hay.  It was a carefree Marie Antoinette moment that celebrated both the collection’s rustic charm and the brand’s French heritage.  I was in heaven.

It was a mob scene trying to reach Karl afterward.  There’s always a crowd and long line to greet him, but after putting on a show like this, everyone wanted to congratulate the grand maestro of the event.  I waited for over an hour, and luckily Karl’s assistant Sebastien eventually pulled me out of line to see him.  That’s him pictured between Karl and me below — thanks Sebastien!  It was a privilege to exchange just a few words with Karl.  He’s an icon and totally inspiring.

Karl Lagerfeld and Susan

Baptiste Giabiconi and Susan

It may have been a rainy Tuesday morning, but everyone at Chanel was smiling.  There were so many bold-faced names in the crowd, from fashion VIP and celebrities to socialites and royals.  Some of the front-row guests are pictured below along with members of Chanel’s executive and creative team: Maureen Chiquet (Global CEO), Peter Marino (architect, Chanel boutique designer) and Latetia Crahay (jewelry designer).

Maureen Chiquet with Peter Marino

Claudia Schiffer; Rihanna

Charlotte Kemp Muhl, Sean Lennon, Irina Lazareanu

Marie-Josée Croze; Maggie Cheung

Laetitia Crahay and Susan

images via style.com, nytimes.com and Marie Goujon