Haute Couture Spring 2008: Chanel, Lacroix, Givenchy

January 22, 2008 — Susan Tabak

Chanel Haute Couture at the Grand Palais

During day two of Paris Haute Couture week my schedule was packed with three fabulous design houses, including Chanel, Christian Lacroix, and Givenchy. Each one utterly unique, I was eager to see how Karl would continue to evolve Coco’s classics, and I exhausted myself trying to imagine what outrageous designs would be on display at Lacroix. Givenchy was also of particular interest, as Riccardo is a great new addition to the design house, and I was curious to see how his Haute Couture vision had grown.

To start the day I attended the always amazing Chanel Haute Couture, which was executed in a style that took my breath away. Under the domed glass ceilings of Le Grand Palais, Karl Lagerfeld once again reinvented the classic styles of Coco Chanel by adding his ever-evolving inspiration of modernization and femininity, which has become his signature. The show was set with a seashore theme, and over the center stage towered a sandcastle sculpture of the classic Chanel jacket. Inspired by the color palette of the shoreline, styles took on shapes and colors that can be found by the sea, including shelled shapes, the sparkle of ocean water, and a palette of soft pastels and shear sheaths.

Staying true to the theme, the couture was fashioned for summer days walking along the shore. Hemlines were generally shortened, and the classic flats were varied in color and texture from a polished patent leather to a sparkle that resembled the glimmer of ocean waters. Never one to waiver from his inspiration Karl ensured every detail fit perfectly with his vision and communicated clearly to the crowd that Chanel is all about looking pulled together, polished, and incredibly chic.

While I felt that perhaps the shortened hemlines of this collection might have been aimed at a younger crowd, it is clear that Karl understands the ever-changing needs of modern women. Anyone familiar with Haute Couture knows that it is truly about exclusive customization that exists on a personal level, and so for Chic Women Over 40, the options are endless in terms of customization to make you most comfortable. On a personal level I would explore longer hemlines for a more mature clientele, and although the flats were gorgeous, I would play with a fabulous heel. But that is just my own personal style.

From this collection, my favorite pieces included the long flowing dresses with transparent sheaths that added volume without weight, providing the sexiness and lightness of a summer dress without showing too much skin. I quite enjoyed the tuxedo tops, as this is always an elegant choice, and I appreciated the movement away from the typical Chanel boxy cuts towards more of a seashell shape that showed of the silhouette for the Spring/Summer season.

As expected, the show debuted an effortlessly elegant collection that built on a historically classic style and reinforced the message that you can always look chic in Chanel. Chanel’s timeless and ageless quality was once again displayed in this collection, which made clear that Karl’s vision continues to keep in mind the beauty of all women.

By far one of the most popular shows for Paris Haute Couture fashion week, there was no shortage of celebrities and trendsetters in the audience.

Anna Wintour front row at Chanel with Michael Roberts from Vanity Fair and Elizabeth Saltzman

Claudia Schiffer looking absolutely stunning

Chatting with Kassidy Schagrin before the show

Being interviewed for Italian television

Congratulating Karl

After the show I congratulated Karl on his incredible collection and remembering our meeting from his last show, he thanked me again for my book, Chic in Paris, which I had given to him as a gift.

Following Chanel I was off to one of my all time favorite Haute Couture collections, Christian Lacroix, which was held at the Centre Georges Pompidou. To my delight, Lacroix’s collection was bursting with imagination that created and the kind of couture that only a genius mind could imagine. In a single statement, the collection was out of this world. Throwing style rules out the window, Lacroix mixed and matched colors, patterns, textures, and materials you would never imagine to work well together. However, his creations magically came together and countered any initial skepticism. True masterpieces, his couture was immaculately detailed and epitomized the uninhibited luxury of Haute Couture. Through this collection it became very clear, the king of Haute Couture is Christian Lacroix.

While the exuberant designs and combination of prints, colors and cuts may not translate to wearable fashions for everyone, I can definitely see these designs being worn to glamorous balls where fashionably forward individuals want to set themselves apart from the crowd. The outrageous gowns were brought to an unimaginable level of extravagance through attention to detail both in design and presentation.

A common style among many of the Haute Couture collections, I very much loved the voluminous skirts shown by Lacroix both for their structured design and knee length cut, which appealed more to a mature audience. Heavily appliquéd satins and draped silks in a multitude of shapes and colors worked wonderfully on the runway and individually would easily translate into notable statement pieces off the runways as well.

One of my favorite aspects of this collection was Lacroix’s ability to master the mix of so many different patterns in a single outfit. A result that looked incredibly conceptualized, it had me amazed and in wonder as to what fantastic ideas were going through his head as he visualized the finished product.

Although Lacroix is famous for his flamboyant style, there were a few pieces included in the collection that would appeal to a more conservative clientele. Simpler designs still looked stunning and although solid in color, the detail afforded to shaping the fabric created couture that was original and elegant. Of the simpler styles, my personal favorite was the draped blood red chiffon dress that sat off the shoulder and looked gracefully chic.

As the show drew to an end, the audience tossed Lacroix’s signature carnations onto the runway in approval and a buzz of nothing but the best reviews quickly spread through the crowd.

Backstage after the show I spoke with Christian Lacroix about his unbelievable collection and the outstanding contribution his imagination brings to Haute Couture.

Sophie, a friend from Paris, and I socialized backstage after the show. She too was enamored by the collections unrestrained creativity.

Following Lacroix, I made my way to Givenchy Haute Couture, which showed in a convent and offered the perfect setting for what was a heavy and dramatic exhibit. As classical music filled the air a mysterious mood set in, which was dispelled throughout the show with amazingly tailored designs reminiscent of the Fall/Winter Haute Couture collection but enhanced with an understated sophistication.

From the very first outfit, I immediately fell in love with the deep black materials and short ruffled skirts with contrasting white details that added dimension to the garments. Impeccably tailored coats and dresses in black and white introduced a collection that, in my opinion, was far more sophisticated and elegant that than last season’s designs.

A couple of show stopping pieces stood out from the collection such as the sparkling dress of gold lamé, which would be a perfect dress for an awards show like the Oscars. Although I am not normally into glitz, the detailed design seduced me into making an exception. I also loved the the ruffled beige jacket, which I thought would make an excellent statement piece due to its ostentatious design.

Riccardo Tisci’s collection appealed presented pieces that would work well for women over 40. A few of my favorites included the tailored suits with studded detailing and the high waist pants that hugged the leg through a tapered cut.

While I was luke warm on this collection in July, I feel as though I have seen the modern originality that provided an inspirational couture collection. Having fallen in love with this young designer’s dramatic vision, I believe his reputation within Haute Couture will successively grow as he evolves with the collection each season. Givenchy was filled with many familiar faces during fashion week and I caught up with some friends before slipping backstage after the show.

Delphine Arnault Gancia arriving at the show

Looking through Chic in Paris with friends Bettina and Liz Goldwyn

Sharing a quick chat with Bethany just before the show

Congratulating Riccardo Tisci on his inspiring collection

Backstage with Carine Roitfeld, Editor-in-Chief at Vogue Paris

Outside the show, talking with Lou Doillon - love her unique sense of style!

The day was absolutely amazing with each designer surpassing my expectations with their gorgeous exhibits and garments. With my busiest day behind me, I am looking forward to attending the Elie Saab Haute Couture collection tomorrow afternoon with hopes that it will continue the trend of fabulous shows I have thus far seen during Haute Couture in Paris.